Lima

Victoria and a song

When Victoria Angulo visited Chabuca Granda at work in central Lima, the songwriter took notice of her friend’s way of moving through the city. Angulo, an Afro-Peruvian woman, became associated with Granda’s “La flor de la canela”, a waltz whose imagery follows a woman past a bridge, the river and an avenue of trees.

The bridge in the waltz is associated with the Rímac and the Alameda de los Descalzos. Angulo lived in the Rímac neighbourhood, where her home hosted gatherings of criollo musicians.

A second bridge, in Barranco

As a child, Granda lived in Barranco and crossed the Puente de los Suspiros on her way to school. She later wrote “El puente de los suspiros”, describing the small bridge spanning a ravine. Both songs give listeners a location, but one remembers an encounter and a woman, while the other addresses the bridge itself.

The recording on the album Dialogando pairs Granda with guitarist Óscar Avilés. The two musicians also recorded “La flor de la canela” together.

Singing together

Lima’s música criolla has long had places for people to gather around performers. In Barranco, Peña Don Porfirio presents live criollo music and dance. Reports describe programmes with guitars, percussion and styles including vals, marinera and festejo; the venue’s schedule should be checked before a visit.

Granda’s songs are not a complete map of Lima. Together, their two bridges keep two parts of her city distinct: the Rímac crossing in the waltz for Angulo, and Barranco’s bridge above the ravine.